How winter damages gutters
- Weight: snow drifts into gutters and packs down; meltwater refreezes into solid ice. A gutter full of ice is far heavier than one full of water, and it stays heavy for weeks.
- Ice dams: heat escaping from the house melts snow on the upper roof, which refreezes at the cold eaves and in the gutter. The ice grows outward and down, pulling the gutter away from the fascia. See ice dams and gutters.
- Sliding snow: on metal roofs and steep, smooth roofs, whole sheets of snow and ice slide off at once and can rip gutters off or bend them flat.
- Freeze-thaw cycles: water in seams and around fasteners freezes and expands, loosening screws and opening joints.
- Frozen downspouts: once a downspout freezes, meltwater has nowhere to go, the gutter fills with ice and the load keeps growing.
Hangers: the most important choice
Most snow damage starts with the hangers. Old-fashioned spikes and ferrules loosen over time and pull out of the fascia under load. Hidden hangers screwed through the back of the gutter into the fascia, and ideally into the rafter tails behind it, hold far better.
Spacing matters. Angi’s guidance puts typical hanger spacing at no more than about 3 feet, and about 2 feet where heavy rain and snow are common. In real snow belts such as Western New York, Northeast Ohio and the upper Midwest, many installers go to 2 feet or closer, with extra hangers near corners and downspouts. See gutter hangers explained.
Gauge and material
Thin aluminum dents and bends easily under ice. Heavier-gauge aluminum (0.027 or 0.032 inch) is stiffer, and steel and copper are stronger still. On large roofs in heavy snow areas, the extra cost of heavier material is small compared with replacing bent gutters. See gutter materials compared.
Where the gutter sits
Gutters mounted too high catch sliding snow; gutters mounted slightly lower, so that an imaginary line extending the roof plane passes just above the front lip, let sliding snow pass over them. That is a common recommendation for snow country, especially on steep and metal roofs, but it must be balanced with catching rain in light storms. A drip edge or gutter apron keeps water from running behind the gutter at the lower position. See drip edge and gutter apron.
Snow guards on metal roofs
Snow guards (also called snow stops or snow retention) are small brackets or rails fastened to the roof that hold snow in place so it melts gradually instead of sliding off all at once. They protect gutters, people and plants below. On metal roofs in snow country, snow guards are often the difference between gutters that last and gutters that are torn off every few winters. They should be sized and spaced for the roof and snow load, following the manufacturer’s guidance. See gutters for metal roofs.
Guards in snow country
Gutter guards can help or hurt in winter. Guards that keep leaves out mean gutters are not full of frozen debris when snow arrives, which helps. But some guards trap snow and ice on top, or collapse under the weight. In snow country, choose sturdy metal guards that fasten to the gutter and support snow load; avoid flimsy plastic screens. See are gutter guards worth it?
Keeping meltwater moving
- Larger downspouts (3x4 inch) freeze shut less easily. See downspout size and placement.
- Correct slope so water does not sit and freeze in low spots.
- Clean gutters before snow, so leaves do not freeze into ice dams.
- Heat cables on problem gutters and downspouts. See heat cables for gutters.
- Extensions above the snow or buried lines, so meltwater can leave the downspout.
Fix the heat loss
University extension services, including the University of Minnesota, point out that ice dams are caused by heat escaping into the attic. Air sealing, insulation and ventilation keep the roof deck cold, so snow melts evenly and less ice forms at the eaves. That is the most effective long-term protection for gutters in snow country, and it lowers heating bills too.
Planning a new system for snow country
If you are replacing gutters in a snowy region, a few decisions make the biggest difference: hidden hangers at 2-foot spacing or closer, heavier-gauge material, 3x4-inch downspouts, a gutter position that lets sliding snow pass over, drip edge or apron behind the gutter, sturdy metal guards, and snow guards on metal roofs. Ask the installer how each of these will be handled, and get it in writing. It is also a good moment to have the fascia checked, because hangers are only as strong as the wood they are screwed into. See fascia repair before new gutters.
Downspouts in deep snow
Where snow piles up several feet deep along the house, downspout outlets can be buried, and meltwater has nowhere to go. Short, flip-up extensions or outlets connected to buried lines that run to a daylight outlet keep water moving. Clear a small channel at each outlet after big storms, and keep plowed and shoveled snow away from downspouts.
Don’t chip ice off gutters
Hacking at ice with a hammer or shovel damages gutters and shingles and is dangerous on a ladder in winter. Roof rakes used from the ground remove snow from the lower roof and reduce the load; use them carefully so they do not catch on the gutter. If ice is causing leaks inside, professional ice dam removal with steam is safer for the roof than chipping.
After winter: what to check
- Sagging sections and gutters pulled away from the fascia
- Bent front lips and crushed corners
- Loose or bent hangers and pulled screws
- Open seams and leaking end caps
- Damaged guards and heat cables
- Downspouts separated at joints or crushed at the bottom
- Water stains on fascia and soffit
Fix these in spring, before summer storms. If gutters are damaged every winter, it is usually time to upgrade hangers, gauge or placement rather than repair again. See signs you need new gutters.
Snow-country regions we serve
Buffalo, Rochester, Cleveland, Milwaukee, Minneapolis, Chicago, Detroit, Denver, Boston and Hartford.